Holiday Desserts: Persimmon Tart with Brown Butter Batter
October 14, 2016 / By Greg Henry
This persimmon tart is what Food52 might call a “Genius Recipe”. It’s adapted from Nancy Silverton, who (back in the day) often featured aberry version at the La Brea Bakery and Campanile restaurant here in Los Angeles. Alas Campanile is no more and La Brea Bakery is merely agrocery store brand of decent bread. Fortunately, this simple recipe lives on and I’ve seen several versions online. It’s also found anew home in avery artful new cookbook from Naomi Pomeroy – Taste &Technique: Recipes to Elevate Your Home Cooking. The Pomeroy version features apricots, making it areal seasonal treat as spring turns intosummer.
However, it’s autumn and we are heading into the holidays. Apricots (and even berries) are either unavailable, unedible, or unaffordable – so I’ve adapted this recipe into apersimmon tart perfect for the holidays. Because as Pomeroy says: “The buttery, caramelly filling holds whatever fruit you like”. Ilike persimmons this time ofyear.
Persimmon Tart
Not only is this persimmon tart seasonal, but it’s especially suited for the holidays because it’s agood make-ahead dessert that’s best when stored at room temperature. Two talking points that win favor when discussing holiday desserts. And Ihate to be the one to tell you, but it’s not too early to be discussing holiday desserts. In fact, it’s time to take adeep culinary breath and hold it for acount of ten. Just around the corner lurks the frenzy of holiday cooking. In my estimation, we have amonth tops before the lid flies off the saucepan and starts its annual whirl around the cook. You may want to take the little time we have left and start planning menus.
Speaking of the holidays I’m happy to say that Taste &Technique would make awonderful gift for the serious cook in your life (and by that Imean YOU). It’s avery sophisticated collection of recipes and advice “designed to improve the home cook’s understanding of professional techniques and flavor combinations in order to produce simple, but show-stopping meals.”
And that’s not just hype. Reading the book gave me the “taste and technique” Ineeded to adapt aNancy Silverton classic into my own Persimmon Tart with Brown Butter Batter. Oh, Ican’t forget to mention the beautiful photographs by Chris Court, they’ve already begun to influence this blog. GREG
PS: I’ve recently discovered the joys of vanilla paste and have converted this recipe to include it. It’s so much closer in taste and texture to real vanilla beans but it doesn’t dry out. You should see me cry like ababy when Ihave to throw away a $7 vanilla bean.
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Persimmon Brown Butter Tart with Vanilla Cream
By: GregHenry
Print ThisRecipeTotal time Yield 8Source Adapted from Nancy Silverton and Naomi PomeroyPublished
This pie may be made aday in advance and keeps best at room temperature.
Ingredients
- 1 raw pâte sucrée dough (enough to line a9 or 10-inch tart pan with aremovable bottom)
- 1 egg white (lightly beaten)
- 3 large eggs (lightly beaten)
- 1 ¼cup granulated sugar
- ½ cup all-purpose flour
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
- 12 tablespoon unsalted butter (cut into ½‑inch slices)
- 1 tablespoon vanilla paste
- 1 cup ripe, fuyu persimmon peeld and cut 3/4‑inch dice (about 3average sized persimmons)
- vanilla-scented whipped cream (as needed for serving)
Directions
Prepare the tart shell: Place a9 or 10 x1‑inch tart pan with aremovable bottom on abaking sheet.
On alightly floured surface using alightly floured rolling pin, roll pastry dough to about a12 or 13-inch round, agenerous 1/8‑inch thick. Carefully fold the dough in half, and slide it onto arolling pin. Transfer to a9 or 10-inch fluted tart pan with removable bottom. Unfold the dough, easing it gently into the pan; do not stretch the dough. Press the dough into place, then run your roller over the edges of the pan, trimming it flush with the top all the way around. Chill in the freezer until firm, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, set the oven rack to the center position and preheat to 375 degrees F.
Once chilled, prick the bottom of tart shell all over with afork, line with parchment paper that extends beyond the rim at least 1½‑inches all around. Fill with pie weights or dried beans; bake on the center rack of the heated oven for 15 minutes. Remove parchment and weights, and continue to bake until set and lightly golden, about 8–10 minutes more. Remove the tart pan from the oven one last time and brush with egg whites to seal the holes. Bake for 5minutes more. Let the tart shell come to room temperature before continuing.
Make the filling: Whisk together the eggs and sugar until pale and frothy. Use arubber spatula to fold in flour and salt until well-combined, lump-free, but not yet stiff. Setaside.
In asmall saucepan, heat the butter until foamy. Continue heating, swirling the pan often, until bubbles subside, the butter is brown and gives off anutty aroma. Remove from heat, allow to cool slightly, and stir in vanilla paste.
Whisking continuously, slowly drizzle the warm (not hot) brown butter vanilla mixture into the egg mixture in aslow, steady stream until the batter is well-combined. Setaside.
Bake the tart: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Place the prepared tart shell on abaking sheet and spread the peeled and diced persimmon evenly across the bottom. There should be some space between the persimmon, don’t use it all if there is not. Pour just enough of the brown butter batter over the persimmon to just cover. It’s fine if edges of the persimmon peek out of the batter. Do not overfill the tart as it rises during baking. If you don’t use all the batter you may bake it separately in asmall ramekin.
Carefully move the tart on its baking sheet to the heated oven and bake for 50 to 55 minutes. When cooked, the top will form acrisp layer that separates from the rest of the filling, but it should be soft in the center. It may require an additional 5minutes. Use your judgment. The edges of the tart may be rather dark. This is expected. However, if the edges get too dark you may drape them in foil for the last 8or 10 minutes ofbaking.
To serve: Allow the tart to cool at least 1hour before attempting to get the tart out of the shell then slice the tart and dollop with vanilla-scented whipped cream
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Pâte Sucrée
By: GregHenry
Print ThisRecipeTotal time Yield 10/11-inch tartSource Adapted from Naomi PomeroyPublished
Ingredients
- 1 egg yolk
- 2 tablespoon heavy cream
- 2 cup all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup granulated sugar
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- 14 tablespoon cold butter (cut into ½cubes)
Directions
Whisk egg yolks and cream in asmall bowl; setaside.
Pulse flour, butter, sugar, and salt in afood processor several times until well combined. Add the butter and pulse for 2or 3seconds 8–10 more times, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Remove the lid and drizzle egg-cream mixture all over the flour and butter, and replace the top. blend just to combine (do not overwork dough or crust will be tough). Pulse several more times to distribute moisture.
Transfer dough to alarge work surface. Knead just to incorporate, 4–5 turns. Shape the dough into a6‑inch disc. Wrap the disc in plastic and chill at least 2hours and up to 24hours.
I was sent areview copy of Taste &Technique: Recipes to Elevate Your Home Cooking. All opinions are myown.
